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[personal profile] webofevil
The name of the restaurant, punctuation and all, is Dans Le Noir?, to which the answer is unequivocally “Oui”. You eat in pitch darkness. No light enters the dining area at all, unless some numpty behind you switches his mobile on to check his messages and inadvertently lights up the whole place, to general boos and catcalls and a very specific “Will you fuck off with your mobile phone?” from [livejournal.com profile] offensive_mango.

An Independent review said the restaurant “neatly inverts the relationship between the blind and the sighted”, and it does exactly that. The waiters are blind, and you are entirely in their hands. Their presence is comforting in an otherwise massively disorienting environment. After they have led you to your table and guided your hands to everything you’ll need, you’re immersed in the sounds of a busy restaurant but can see precisely nothing. Finding your way around your plate (which seems about five times its actual size) becomes an adventure in itself, especially if you have opted for the “surprise menu” and have no idea what you’re about to be presented with: “Is this couscous? This is couscous, right?” (No. It turned out to be “lentilles”, which appears to be code for couscous.) They show you the menu afterwards so you can see what you’ve been eating. We had identified about half of it, which apparently isn’t bad going.


Dans Le Noir?, yesterday

The idea is to make you focus on your food and experience the tastes anew, but the effect goes far deeper than that. One of my uncles has been blind for years, and Saturday night was the closest thing I have ever experienced to how he has lived much of his adult life. Nothing quite prepares you for that kind of immersion. [livejournal.com profile] offensive_mango said that aspect reminded her of the mild panic she experienced on her first scuba dive. When some friends of mine went to Dans Le Noir? a few weeks ago, one of their number unexpectedly had a panic attack as soon as he was in the dark room and had to go home. That didn’t happen to me; I was mostly fine with it, although I was aware that at a very deep level there was a small part of me that needed to be told that everything was all right. I guess that’s entirely natural—caves, firelight, sabre-tooth tigers and all that. (Emerging bewildered into the light turns out to be just as disorienting. You'll need a gentle sit-down for a few minutes to come to terms with it.)

Actually, my friends’ experience was disappointing. Some of the orders were wrong, the (sighted) staff failed to find them in the (lit) bar beforehand, and there was a general level of Soviet-style incompetence they failed to find amusing. Several online reviews sang the same song. However, this was one of the aspects of the place that piqued my curiosity. To have come up with this extraordinary gimmick for a restaurant was already quite bold, but then to execute it badly seemed entirely perverse. Those all seem to have been teething problems, though—the place has only been open for a couple of months—because the service and the food were excellent. It was pricey (although you could probably come in under £40 a head if you just opted for two courses and nixed the wine), but we thought it was worth it.

The restaurant’s website arguably tries a little too hard in its pitch. “How many times have you ever had the chance to talk to people without any preconception that sight implies?” it demands. Um, every time I’ve used the phone? But that’s a footling quibble: now that the place seems to have found its footing, I cheerfully recommend it.

Date: 2006-10-09 10:14 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chiller.livejournal.com
I would imagine it gives one the overwhelming urge to hold someone's hand. Yanno, anyone's hand.

Did you have to agree unique penguin-style peeping noises in order to find the right table on your return if one of you went for a wee? Or did the waiters take all the fun out of it by helping you? And if so, at what point did the "help" stop?

Date: 2006-10-09 10:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] webofevil.livejournal.com
I should make it clear that you do not go to the toilet in the dark. That has been the most commonly raised question/objection, just ahead of "but how would you know if the man next to you had his cock out?". (The answer: you don't. You're just going to have to trust him.)

You can call your waiter by name, they'll come and lead you out of the dining room, and then you make your own way to the toilets, which have working lightbulbs and everything

Date: 2006-10-09 10:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chiller.livejournal.com
"but how would you know if the man next to you had his cock out?". (The answer: you don't. You're just going to have to trust him.)

Hmm. A pitch dark, very public place. I would imagine any enterprising person would be far too busy playing with their own genitalia to give much thought to what the chap next to them might be doing.

Ye gods, what a fabulous place that would be for an infra-red camera.

Date: 2006-10-09 10:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] webofevil.livejournal.com
> what a fabulous place that would be for an infra-red camera.

From the FAQ (http://www.danslenoir.com/london/faq.php):

"Yes, we do film the room with infrared cameras and keep records to ensure visitors' welfare and safety. Please be assured that we only watch the records in case of an incident or on customer request."

Date: 2006-10-09 11:05 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chiller.livejournal.com
Oh MAN, that's just asking for it. You go there with your sweedie. Do something utterly reprehensible, which you can get away with because HELLO it's completely dark.

Then request copy of the IR tapes for a small administrative fee under the Data Protection Act. It's just like being photographed on a Disneyland ride! Only grainier. And illegal.

Date: 2006-10-09 10:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] g0ldt00th.livejournal.com
This place actually exists? Is satire dead?

Date: 2006-10-09 10:50 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] strictlytrue.livejournal.com
I now reckon we should go ahead with our idea for "Dans La Silence", where all the waiters are deaf, you have to point at what you want on the menu, and there is NO TALKING.

Date: 2006-10-09 10:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] webofevil.livejournal.com
> Is satire dead?

Not according to this sterling example!

Date: 2006-10-09 11:01 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] strictlytrue.livejournal.com
Look, I'm trying my best.

It will please you to know that I bought some multivitamins this morning, and accidentally bought Centrum 50+ - a special blend of vitamins and minerals for those aged 50 and above. ("You like those ones, yes. Easy to swallow. From the nice man at the chemists..." etc. etc.) I took them back - it's bad enough feeling like you're old man, without taking his vitamin supplements as well.

Date: 2006-10-09 11:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] webofevil.livejournal.com
Well, the nice man at the chemist's clearly needs telling off for supplying Centrum 50+ in the first place to someone who is so clearly still a dashing blade. "I'm sorry, sir, unless you can prove this is for an ageing relative I can't let you take it out of the shop," is what he should have said. And if you had insisted he should have wrested it from your grasp.

Date: 2006-10-09 11:03 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] g0ldt00th.livejournal.com
If the waiters were deaf, how would they know you were speaking (you could quite easily mask the mouth movements with sloppy mastication)?

I recommend that there is a low level barrage of white noise that effectively masks out the frequency range employed by the human voice. It could also align your alpha waves to make your eating experience all the more pleasurable.

Date: 2006-10-09 11:07 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] strictlytrue.livejournal.com
I recommend that there is a low level barrage of white noise that effectively masks out the frequency range employed by the human voice.

The use of such a technique was suggested, and it's definitely the way forward as far as guaranteeing the silence of Dans La Silence is concerned. Perhaps a similar system could be employed to wipe out the noise of cutlery, crockery etc.

Date: 2006-10-09 03:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] alfaguru.livejournal.com
I once went to one of Hewlett-Packard's offices, where they had a noise cancellation system installed. A huge office full of people busily working, yet almost completely silent. Apparently when it was first installed it was even more eerily quiet, but there'd been complaints that it was too disturbing like that so they'd added back in a modest level of random background noise.

Date: 2006-10-12 10:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] besskeloid.livejournal.com
The restaurant’s website

is just cheating. Not only do the photos feature the lit bar, but the text is white on black & therefore legible.

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